When I see someone driving down the road with a dog in their lap, I cringe. I want to slap these people. Same with idiots who do not wear their seatbelts or allow their children to roam free in the car. Seatbelts save lives people! And there is no exception for animals!
Animals really need to be contained in moving vehicles, for their safety, and the safety of all the other passengers in the vehicle and all the others on the road. Jumping and hopping around in the car can distract a driver to the point where they get in an accident because of it. It isn't worth having your pet on your lap for a car ride if you both end up in the hospital, or worse, you in the hospital and your beloved pet splattered on the highway or splintered into your windshield. Totally uncool, man.
We use a safety hammock for our bulldog, and our Saint Bernard travels in the very back cabin of our small sized SUV. Separating pets is a good idea when traveling, especially on long trips when they can get cranky and start fights while you're driving.
I found a great option for a hammock on Amazon here. It looks inexpensive, but functional. We bought ours a few years ago and spent about $50.
We also keep a crate on hand for car trips, but as we don't have enough room in our vehicle to crate both boys, we typically just rely on the hammock.
We've tried seat harnesses, and I'm all for them, except that our Rosie got herself strung up in it when she got excited and nearly choked to death while I tried to slam on the brakes, reach over to the back seat, and pull her free while still trying to keep the car on the road and not alarm other drivers. It was a terrifying experience for both of us. My guess is that harnesses are fine for dogs who are completely stationary in the car, but for any furball who likes to move around even the slightest bit, I can't say I would suggest a seat harness. The hammock is our best option. Though they can still jump it if they want to, and perhaps fly out if in a serious major car wreak, it will protect most dogs from most collisions and if they are trained and not a behavior problem, they should be fine. If there is a behavior problem that keeps your dog from remaining in his place on his own accord, time for crate in the car, and a visit with a good behaviorist. That is not a behavior that you want to let linger.
Please, do not let your baby hang his or her head out the window in the wind at any speed higher than 25 MPH. Driving around the neighborhood can be okay, but any speed higher than that could put your dog at risk to be hit in the face (eyes!) with debris kicked up on the road. I have seen some horrifying pictures and heard some awful stories about dogs who have been injured (or killed!) while doing this. The few minutes of joy they get isn't worth the risk. Do it on your way out of your neighborhood, or your way back in, but not once you start going at a decent pace. One story I heard from a friend about a friend of her's included details about getting sideswiped and having her dog's head get crushed between her car and the car that hit them. That doesn't sound worth risking.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Carpet Freshener: Baking Soda
So after our delightful moving out experience, T did some good research on how to really keep the carpet from holding on to Eau de Doglette. I have never been a fan of those carpet powders, and especially after using some recently, I'm even less of a fan.The secret magic cure for the carpet? Plain old baking soda (Bicarbonate of soda, for you Brits.) The secret? Don't use it with the kind of vacuum that doesn't have replaceable bags. Over time if can build up in those suckers (heh) and break your vac, but if you have a vacuum that uses disposable bags, you're in luck!
Lucky for us, we have 1 vacuum that does in fact use disposable bags. I'm not a fan of the disposable waste, but to keep the dog smell out, I'm willing to allow myself this indulgence.
It is best when you can rope off the room you want to treat, sprinkle lightly with baking soda (more is not necessarily better in this case) and let it soak up the smells over a little while, like at least 30 minutes, but a few hours would work awesome! Simply vacuum up and walk away. Ta-da!
For a little extra something special, mix in a few drops of your favorite essential oil before sprinkling. I like lavender, cedar wood, and bergamot, but that's just me.
Carpet Cleaner: Folex
This miraculous carpet cleaner comes in a delightfully cheesy, as-seen-on-tv-circa-1993 packaging and works wonders on carpet stains from barfy bulldogs and waves away a whole host of other doggily fluids too. We just spray and blot (no rubbing!) Use it in a steam cleaner, too! There's an every day spray bottle size, and an industrial sized jug for steam cleaning, or refilling the spray bottle.
It's safe around kids and pets. The amazon reviews say it all, except those idiots that don't know what they are doing and obviously used it wrong. I spray a very concentrated amount--not just a light misting. Get about 2 inches from the stain, and cover the whole stain in spray and then let sit about 1-2 minutes, then blot up with paper towels. Repeat for worse stains. I promise--everything except oil based paint has come out in my experience, and that includes dog urine, dog feces, dog barf (plain food barf and also bile barf), wine, soda, jell-o (red!), dirt, blood, green marker, and plenty of other unknown stains.
Drool Fighter!
There is never a shortage of drool in our house. Between our overpanting Saint Bernard and our dribbling English bulldog, we're practically swimming in it. Something that helps to combat the gooey gunk is a little apple cider vinegar added to their giant 16 quart water bowl. We use about 1 Tbsp. for every 2 quarts (most standard food and water bowls are 2 quarts). Of course, we only use stainless steel in our house. Stainless steel is about the only material for bowls that won't make a bulldog's face break out, and is the easiest, durablest stuff to keep clean and in a regular rotation. We have a gigantic water bowl that the boys share, so we use a lot more vinegar per bowl, but we only fill the bowl once a day, which is highly convenient if you consider how many times we'd have to reload a 2-quart bowl. We also keep their bowl in a giant low-walled Rubbermaid container, so that it catches the overspray and dribble.
The vinegar also helps Angus (the bulldog) to breathe properly when he exercises, as it doesn't make his throat all phlegmy and gross. Neither minds the flavor now, but it is something you have to let them get used to. Gently introduce it a 1/4 tsp. at a time per 2 quarts. We tried to just do the whole dose from the start, but they weren't interested. Eventually they would have drank it, but it wasn't hard to just ease them into it slowly. Sort of like food changes, water changes can upset their tummies and their disposition, so slower is better for an easy transition.
Unlike our food bowls, we do not put kongs in their water bowls. In their food bowls, we place a few kongs (three for Angus, but just one for Gordie--Gordie is a much slower eater) to make them work around them when eating and thus take their time chewing and swallowing before gobbling food down. Between all the bulldog barf and digestive issues and bloat for the saint, we do whatever we can to head things off before they become problems.
The vinegar also helps Angus (the bulldog) to breathe properly when he exercises, as it doesn't make his throat all phlegmy and gross. Neither minds the flavor now, but it is something you have to let them get used to. Gently introduce it a 1/4 tsp. at a time per 2 quarts. We tried to just do the whole dose from the start, but they weren't interested. Eventually they would have drank it, but it wasn't hard to just ease them into it slowly. Sort of like food changes, water changes can upset their tummies and their disposition, so slower is better for an easy transition.
Unlike our food bowls, we do not put kongs in their water bowls. In their food bowls, we place a few kongs (three for Angus, but just one for Gordie--Gordie is a much slower eater) to make them work around them when eating and thus take their time chewing and swallowing before gobbling food down. Between all the bulldog barf and digestive issues and bloat for the saint, we do whatever we can to head things off before they become problems.
Hygiene and Grooming
Dog's skin is different than humans. They have fur, not hair, and they aren't cut out for a daily bath. They are animals that have not yet evolved to get rid of their fur, like we did, because they use it. Sooo...dog's skin and fur needs different treatment than people's skin and hair. It is important to only use products designed for dogs. The pH level in human and human baby shampoos and soaps are way too tough on a doggie's outsides.
Here's a list of bathing products we enjoy:
For our Saint Bernard, who tends to have itchy skin and hot spots:
Earthbath Tea Tree Oil & Aloe Vera Shampoo
For our very smelly little English bulldog, who, I swear, sweats in his armpits like a kid in middle school:
Earthbath Mediterranean Magic Rosemary Scented Deodorizing Shampoo
For both boys after shampooing:
Earthbath Cream Rinse & Conditioner
Earthbath's products are environmentally friendly and are completely harmless to lawns, which makes this a great product for outdoor baths on the patio. :) They are all 100% bio-degradable, free of phosphates and enzymes, and are animal cruelty-free. That's a good thing in our book!
Ordinarilly, I find Earthbath products in the specialty pet stores we frequent, but Petco is now carrying them, so if you don't have a reputable pet store near you, Petco is a good option to find Earthbath.
You can also check out Earthbath's website to find where to buy near you or online.
I'm not a big fan of foo-foo dog products, but Cain and Able make a great paw rub that is perfect for dogs with beat up pads like our bulldog who has weird feet. His pads are very silky smooth, and not designed for good walking on cement, concrete, and pavement (where we do most of our walking together). Our previous bully had great pads for it, but Angus apparently came from very different bully stock. We use this paw rub for his feet when he gets beat up from walking:
Cain & Able Every Dog Has His Day Spa Paw Rub
Our Gordie has DISGUSTING ears. We don't know why. He also has digusting teeth. We think he was given a weird antibiotic as a youngin' that altered the way he excretes things in his body (saliva, ear wax, boogies, etc). Because of this, we are obsessed with cleaning his ears and keeping them from becoming infected. We like to use a little bit of ear cleaner along with some soft cotton pads (and occasionally a gentle q-tip swipe) to clean him out. This is the cleaner we like the best, because it is chock full of natural essential oils, doesn't irritate his skin, and smells yummy:
Cain & Able's Every Dog Has His Day Spa Ear Cleanser
Bulldog care is very special, and must be taken very seriously. If a bully gets infected in their folds and wrinkles, it can be very dangerous (tails removed!) and extremely uncomfortable. For our bulldog's nose rope and tail pocket, we clean him out daily with:
Huggie's Natural Care baby wipes
We buy them in a huge refill pack at Target for cheap.
Twice a week we use Malaseb wipes on him.
When he gets some irritation in there, we use a little A&D Ointment. When he just needs some routine drying out, we use Desitin Creamy. Typically, we use A&D in his nose rope because it is usually irritated from licking and eating, and Desitin Creamy in his tail, where it get sore and then gunky.
As for their teeth, this is a constant challenge in our house. Neither of our boys play nice when it comes to brushing their teeth. Gordie runs and hides. If you eventually get to walk up to him to brush, he pees himself. Angus bites the toothbrush. If you take it away, he growls and tries to get it back. He thinks it is a toy and tries to play his favorite game with you: Keep Away.
In light of this, we have mostly given up on toothbrushing in this house. We continue to work on their behavioral issues with toothbrushing and try a few times a week, but neither has made much progress, and we have bigger fish to fry on the behavior front right now, so toothbrushing has taken a back burner for a while. We use a couple of products to help keep their teeth healthy, and we also send them in for a full dental cleaning once a year, which is covered by our pet insurance. When they go in for the dental, we also order hip x-rays for our Saint Bernard, to keep an eye on arthritis and any other issues that might pop up. Angus is now almost 3, and we'll be doing x-rays on him as well.
We use the following products in conjunction to help combat the breath and teeth problems:
BreathaLyser PLUS Drinking Water Additive
D.D.S. Dental Squares (Gordie only)
Coenzyme Q10
Vitamin C
Zukes' Z-Ridge Dental Chew (We LOVE Zukes!!)
When we had our previous bulldog, Rosie, we were able to brush her teeth 4-5 times a week. She had great teeth! This is the toothbrush that worked well for us then:
Triple-Pet Toothbrush
We just used a doggy toothpaste from the petstore. Whatever was on sale was good for her. We didn't get too concerned with ingredients, but if we found a natural option, we went with that.
Both boys get brushed on a regular basis (few times a week for Gordie, once a week for Angus). Gordie gets a good long toothed comb, and Angus gets a short toothed rubber number (he has coarse, short hair, so his hair doesn't get any knots in it). It is a great time to bond with your dog, so make regular brushing a habit for your baby.
Here's a list of bathing products we enjoy:
For our Saint Bernard, who tends to have itchy skin and hot spots:
Earthbath Tea Tree Oil & Aloe Vera Shampoo
For our very smelly little English bulldog, who, I swear, sweats in his armpits like a kid in middle school:
Earthbath Mediterranean Magic Rosemary Scented Deodorizing Shampoo
For both boys after shampooing:
Earthbath Cream Rinse & Conditioner
Earthbath's products are environmentally friendly and are completely harmless to lawns, which makes this a great product for outdoor baths on the patio. :) They are all 100% bio-degradable, free of phosphates and enzymes, and are animal cruelty-free. That's a good thing in our book!
Ordinarilly, I find Earthbath products in the specialty pet stores we frequent, but Petco is now carrying them, so if you don't have a reputable pet store near you, Petco is a good option to find Earthbath.
You can also check out Earthbath's website to find where to buy near you or online.
I'm not a big fan of foo-foo dog products, but Cain and Able make a great paw rub that is perfect for dogs with beat up pads like our bulldog who has weird feet. His pads are very silky smooth, and not designed for good walking on cement, concrete, and pavement (where we do most of our walking together). Our previous bully had great pads for it, but Angus apparently came from very different bully stock. We use this paw rub for his feet when he gets beat up from walking:
Cain & Able Every Dog Has His Day Spa Paw Rub
Our Gordie has DISGUSTING ears. We don't know why. He also has digusting teeth. We think he was given a weird antibiotic as a youngin' that altered the way he excretes things in his body (saliva, ear wax, boogies, etc). Because of this, we are obsessed with cleaning his ears and keeping them from becoming infected. We like to use a little bit of ear cleaner along with some soft cotton pads (and occasionally a gentle q-tip swipe) to clean him out. This is the cleaner we like the best, because it is chock full of natural essential oils, doesn't irritate his skin, and smells yummy:
Cain & Able's Every Dog Has His Day Spa Ear Cleanser
Bulldog care is very special, and must be taken very seriously. If a bully gets infected in their folds and wrinkles, it can be very dangerous (tails removed!) and extremely uncomfortable. For our bulldog's nose rope and tail pocket, we clean him out daily with:
Huggie's Natural Care baby wipes
We buy them in a huge refill pack at Target for cheap.
Twice a week we use Malaseb wipes on him.
When he gets some irritation in there, we use a little A&D Ointment. When he just needs some routine drying out, we use Desitin Creamy. Typically, we use A&D in his nose rope because it is usually irritated from licking and eating, and Desitin Creamy in his tail, where it get sore and then gunky.
As for their teeth, this is a constant challenge in our house. Neither of our boys play nice when it comes to brushing their teeth. Gordie runs and hides. If you eventually get to walk up to him to brush, he pees himself. Angus bites the toothbrush. If you take it away, he growls and tries to get it back. He thinks it is a toy and tries to play his favorite game with you: Keep Away.
In light of this, we have mostly given up on toothbrushing in this house. We continue to work on their behavioral issues with toothbrushing and try a few times a week, but neither has made much progress, and we have bigger fish to fry on the behavior front right now, so toothbrushing has taken a back burner for a while. We use a couple of products to help keep their teeth healthy, and we also send them in for a full dental cleaning once a year, which is covered by our pet insurance. When they go in for the dental, we also order hip x-rays for our Saint Bernard, to keep an eye on arthritis and any other issues that might pop up. Angus is now almost 3, and we'll be doing x-rays on him as well.
We use the following products in conjunction to help combat the breath and teeth problems:
BreathaLyser PLUS Drinking Water Additive
D.D.S. Dental Squares (Gordie only)
Coenzyme Q10
Vitamin C
Zukes' Z-Ridge Dental Chew (We LOVE Zukes!!)
When we had our previous bulldog, Rosie, we were able to brush her teeth 4-5 times a week. She had great teeth! This is the toothbrush that worked well for us then:
Triple-Pet Toothbrush
We just used a doggy toothpaste from the petstore. Whatever was on sale was good for her. We didn't get too concerned with ingredients, but if we found a natural option, we went with that.
Both boys get brushed on a regular basis (few times a week for Gordie, once a week for Angus). Gordie gets a good long toothed comb, and Angus gets a short toothed rubber number (he has coarse, short hair, so his hair doesn't get any knots in it). It is a great time to bond with your dog, so make regular brushing a habit for your baby.
Nutrition: What to Feed A Sick Baby
Every once in a while, we have a sick pup. Either they ate goose poop (yup!) and have spores in their tummies, or they just are having a hard time adjusting to something new...it happens a few times a year, depending on what they get themselves into and where they've been. It is good to keep a "bland diet" stored away in your freezer for times like these. You don't want to have to leave your baby to go to the store just to buy them food to make them feel better...just keep it on hand, so you'll always have it when you need it and it will take a lot of the frustration away.
For average, non-urate-stone forming dogs, this is what I suggest:
Chicken Breast
Rice
Yogurt
Banana, Pumpkin, or Applesauce
That's the basic list.
Here's the subtleties:
Chicken Breast
You'll want to cook the crap out of it to make sure it has no lingering creepy bacteria. You don't want to make your dog sicker. Even though their tummies can usually handle more than we can, when they are fighting something already, don't add to the mix. I boil the chicken in a big pot, and make about 8 breasts for Gordie for 4 days. He gets 2 breasts over the course of 1 day, and he weighs 140 pounds. Angus gets about half that. You can do the math for your baby's size. Once the chicken has cooled a bit on a plate, I shred it. Shredded chicken goes down the throat smoother, and is easier to digest than cubed or cut up chicken. A very friendly, helpful emergency veterinarian taught us that when Angus went in with a bug a while back.
Rice
I use the cooking water from the chicken to make the rice with. I let the water cool, then I fill up my rice cooker with it, and add the appropriate amount of rice for the amount of liquid. Each rice cooker is different. I make about 6 cups cooked rice. You can skim the chicken cooking liquid of fat before using, if you are concerned about that. I sometimes ignore this step, but try to do it when I have time and remember. Prepare the rice as you normally would cook rice, but don't add ANYTHING. No salt, no nothin'. Just plain. The chicken cooking liquid both saves water (yea for the environment!), but it also imparts some more flavor without making the food too rich or salty or heavy for dog bellies.
Yogurt
I continue with my usual 1 tbsp. daily regime when our boys are sick, to help with that bacteria stuff. If your dog is lactose intolerant, you'll want to avoid the yogurt.
Bananas, Pumpkin, or Applesauce
What you use depends on what the problem is. If you have a dog with diarrhea, go with 1/4 cup canned pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie mix!!) in each meal. If the pumpkin doesn't work or your baby doesn't like the sweet delicious autumnal essence of pumpkin, try 1/2 a mashed banana in each meal. The softer the banana, the better. It is a great time to use up those uggie brown ones before they turn into banana-booze. If your pooch is constipated, use the applesauce. I go with 1/2 cup per meal until I SEE results. Heh. These amounts are appropriate for all dogs over 50 pounds. Under 50, shrink it down proportionately.
You'll want to feed your baby 4 times a day. With Gordie, I feed 1/2 chicken breast at all four meals, plus 1/2 cup rice at each meal, 1/4 tbsp. yogurt, and whatever fruit I'm adding (banana, pumpkin, applesauce). I mix everything together well, and make sure the rice isn't lumpy and the shredded chicken is nice and thin and managable. Be sure to provide your babe with plenty of water, unless instructed by your vet to withhold.
When it comes to stone formers, use 1/2 cooked plain egg white (just nuke it for 30 seconds) for each 1/2 chicken breast. The rest is the same as above.
I do not use supplements for the dogs during their illness. It can be a little harsh on sore tummies, and it can conflict with medication, so inform your vet that you will not be using supplements until they are well again, and make sure it is safe to start using it again if your baby will be on medication for a while.
For average, non-urate-stone forming dogs, this is what I suggest:
Chicken Breast
Rice
Yogurt
Banana, Pumpkin, or Applesauce
That's the basic list.
Here's the subtleties:
Chicken Breast
You'll want to cook the crap out of it to make sure it has no lingering creepy bacteria. You don't want to make your dog sicker. Even though their tummies can usually handle more than we can, when they are fighting something already, don't add to the mix. I boil the chicken in a big pot, and make about 8 breasts for Gordie for 4 days. He gets 2 breasts over the course of 1 day, and he weighs 140 pounds. Angus gets about half that. You can do the math for your baby's size. Once the chicken has cooled a bit on a plate, I shred it. Shredded chicken goes down the throat smoother, and is easier to digest than cubed or cut up chicken. A very friendly, helpful emergency veterinarian taught us that when Angus went in with a bug a while back.
Rice
I use the cooking water from the chicken to make the rice with. I let the water cool, then I fill up my rice cooker with it, and add the appropriate amount of rice for the amount of liquid. Each rice cooker is different. I make about 6 cups cooked rice. You can skim the chicken cooking liquid of fat before using, if you are concerned about that. I sometimes ignore this step, but try to do it when I have time and remember. Prepare the rice as you normally would cook rice, but don't add ANYTHING. No salt, no nothin'. Just plain. The chicken cooking liquid both saves water (yea for the environment!), but it also imparts some more flavor without making the food too rich or salty or heavy for dog bellies.
Yogurt
I continue with my usual 1 tbsp. daily regime when our boys are sick, to help with that bacteria stuff. If your dog is lactose intolerant, you'll want to avoid the yogurt.
Bananas, Pumpkin, or Applesauce
What you use depends on what the problem is. If you have a dog with diarrhea, go with 1/4 cup canned pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie mix!!) in each meal. If the pumpkin doesn't work or your baby doesn't like the sweet delicious autumnal essence of pumpkin, try 1/2 a mashed banana in each meal. The softer the banana, the better. It is a great time to use up those uggie brown ones before they turn into banana-booze. If your pooch is constipated, use the applesauce. I go with 1/2 cup per meal until I SEE results. Heh. These amounts are appropriate for all dogs over 50 pounds. Under 50, shrink it down proportionately.
You'll want to feed your baby 4 times a day. With Gordie, I feed 1/2 chicken breast at all four meals, plus 1/2 cup rice at each meal, 1/4 tbsp. yogurt, and whatever fruit I'm adding (banana, pumpkin, applesauce). I mix everything together well, and make sure the rice isn't lumpy and the shredded chicken is nice and thin and managable. Be sure to provide your babe with plenty of water, unless instructed by your vet to withhold.
When it comes to stone formers, use 1/2 cooked plain egg white (just nuke it for 30 seconds) for each 1/2 chicken breast. The rest is the same as above.
I do not use supplements for the dogs during their illness. It can be a little harsh on sore tummies, and it can conflict with medication, so inform your vet that you will not be using supplements until they are well again, and make sure it is safe to start using it again if your baby will be on medication for a while.
Nutrition: What to Feed Your Baby
My only complaint about vets is their severe lack of knowledge when it comes to nutrition. Doctors for humans can have a similar problem, though vets are much worse off. Nutrition is a topic glossed over in school, and thus never gets the attention it really deserves. Both human and dog nutritionists have my respect--it's a hard job, and often overlooked and thankless.
In light of this issue, I've been fortunate enough to find lots of good sources for dog nutrition information. Our dear friend, K, helped open us up to a world of dog foods we never knew existed when we got our first bully, Rosie. During our initial meet and greet rescue interview, they asked us what we intended to feed our new girl. We told them "whatever you suggest--you obviously know what you're doing". Luckily for us, they were foodwise and helped start us on a GREAT track, and many of the tips and tricks they taught us, we still employ today over 2 years and countless hours of research later. I have befriended a few veterinary nutritionists who have helped me to shape and mold our nutrition program, and coupled with my own research, I think we pretty much have it figured out.
This is what we feed our Saint Bernard each day (we feed twice a day, so halve the measurements for each meal):
4 cups dry Innova Large Breed Adult dog food (holistic, human grade dog food with no junk) *We just switched him to Innova Large Breed Senior dog food, and are in the process of determining how well he tolerates it, so a report will be posted on that shortly, after I've had some time to see how he does on the new food.
1 Tbsp. Nurpo supplement, silver label because it has additional joint support (regular joint support pills are fine, but often give dogs the runs. Trader Joe's has a joint support supplement for dogs, but it contains liver, something we don't often give the bulldog because of Angus' purine issues--organ meats are no-nos. Nupro has it built in, so it saves us a step, and some moola, which is always nice.)
1 Tbsp. plain low-fat yogurt (we buy a big container of generic brand at the store, but prefer organic when we can get it. yogurt keeps the digestive tract nice and healthy by promoting all that good bacteria)
1 vitamin E capsule (400 IU) daily (not twice a day. we get the big container at Costco--it lasts forever)
This is what we feed our English bulldog each day (we feed twice a day, so halve the measurements for each meal):
1 1/2 cups Innova Adult Reduced-Fat Dog Food (holistic, human grade dog food with no junk) *I don't recommend the reduced-fat version if your dog is at a healthy weight. Angus was on some different food blends that blew up him like a balloon over the past few months, due to his urate stone issues, so we are now trying to help him shed the excess weight he gained from the other foods. Ordinarily, I recommend Innova Adult dry dog food or Large Breed (for you big guys out there). There is a large bites and a small bites version of the regular Adult version, so be sure to pick the right size for your furball.
1 tsp. Solid Gold Seameal Supplement (Nupro was great before Angus was a stone former, but as it contains liver, Angus can't have it. Angus has to have foods that are lower in purines than red meat and organ meats.)
1 Tbsp. yogurt (see above)
1 Vitamin E capsule (see above)
Gordie can be particular about his food at times. He likes a little variety in his meals, which is both understandable, and quite frankly, recommended. Keeping their interest up is always a good thing. We like to add a spoonful of one of Merrick's canned foods. Merrick's has a lunch box multi-pack that is a family favorite. It comes with 7 different canned options, plus a mystery can. All the blends are healthy (though, I don't like to rely on canned food on a regular basis--too expensive for not enough nutritional value). Every few days, we open a new can and surprise Gordie with a new flavor. The only thing he won't eat are the peas in some of the blends. He licks them clean and leaves them in the bowl for us. As for Angus (and Gordie to a lesser extent), we add things like ripe bananas (peel it and mash it), shredded cheese, cottage cheese, or cooked apples (I just cook down some Macintosh with cinnamon, like my Aunt Eileen's Oktoberfest Applesauce recipe which I'll share someday).
Innova may not be the answer for your dog. I'm sorry, if it isn't, because it truly is my favorite of all the dog foods. Do keep in mind, when looking at dog food prices, Innova may cost $40-50 for a 30-33 pound bag, but you typically have it last twice as long as the same size bag of junkier food for $20-30, so you actually end up breaking even. You have to feed much much less Innova food to the amount of a junkier food to match the nutrients. It costs more up front, but you go to the store less, the vet bills are less, and your dog is immensely healthy. You can't beat that. Angus would be dead today if he had not been on Innova and Nupro before he has his bowel obstruction last summer. The surgeon told us so. And he's not the kind of dude who says things like that lightly. In the least. He's the most serious man I have ever met.
That being said, there are a few other human grade brands that I suggest for those who can't use Innova or are looking for a grainless option (Innova's EVO is a great option!), which include:
Wellness and Wellness CORE (though, I have found Wellness to produce a CRAPLOAD more poops, pun intended. Seriously, a lot more poop.)
Solid Gold Barking at the Moon
California Natural *
Orijen
EVO
Artemis Maximal Dog
Taste of the Wild
Horizon Legacy
Instinct
Go Natural
Blue Wilderness
Canidae
Fromm's
Merrick's
Life's Abundance
Timberwolf Organics
Acana
Watch with grain-free or low-grain dog foods like Orijen and EVO and some of the others on this list. They are higher in protein and grainless, and thus you feed quite a bit less and exercise more to compensate. Grain-free foods are also not recommended for puppies. Adult doggies only, please.
I rely on www.dogfoodanalysis.com to give me good reviews on foods. I am really only a fan of the 5 and 6 star kibbles on a whole, but there are some others that fit special cases like if you just add a little extra protein on the side (we give our dogs eggs, chicken, and other protein sources in their meals to balance things out, but also to keep their interest in food up.)
I do not suggest relying on exclusively canned food for a dog's diet. It can be added for fun and interest, but I find that dental problems tend to be the downside for canned foods as a sole diet source. I like dry kibbles that you can add things to, such as spoonfuls of yummy canned varieties.
I fully believe the Nupro supplement is an essential part of a dog's diet. It does a wondrous amount of things to keep the inside and outside of your baby nice and healthy. Lots of weirdos give their dogs avocado for skin and coat. Nupro does it better, cheaper, and without risk of avocado poisoning. Plus, dogs like the taste. We mix in about a 1/2 cup tap water into each meal, as Nupro doubles as a gravy! Yum!
Always be sure to provide lots of fresh, clean water.
In light of this issue, I've been fortunate enough to find lots of good sources for dog nutrition information. Our dear friend, K, helped open us up to a world of dog foods we never knew existed when we got our first bully, Rosie. During our initial meet and greet rescue interview, they asked us what we intended to feed our new girl. We told them "whatever you suggest--you obviously know what you're doing". Luckily for us, they were foodwise and helped start us on a GREAT track, and many of the tips and tricks they taught us, we still employ today over 2 years and countless hours of research later. I have befriended a few veterinary nutritionists who have helped me to shape and mold our nutrition program, and coupled with my own research, I think we pretty much have it figured out.
This is what we feed our Saint Bernard each day (we feed twice a day, so halve the measurements for each meal):
4 cups dry Innova Large Breed Adult dog food (holistic, human grade dog food with no junk) *We just switched him to Innova Large Breed Senior dog food, and are in the process of determining how well he tolerates it, so a report will be posted on that shortly, after I've had some time to see how he does on the new food.
1 Tbsp. Nurpo supplement, silver label because it has additional joint support (regular joint support pills are fine, but often give dogs the runs. Trader Joe's has a joint support supplement for dogs, but it contains liver, something we don't often give the bulldog because of Angus' purine issues--organ meats are no-nos. Nupro has it built in, so it saves us a step, and some moola, which is always nice.)
1 Tbsp. plain low-fat yogurt (we buy a big container of generic brand at the store, but prefer organic when we can get it. yogurt keeps the digestive tract nice and healthy by promoting all that good bacteria)
1 vitamin E capsule (400 IU) daily (not twice a day. we get the big container at Costco--it lasts forever)
This is what we feed our English bulldog each day (we feed twice a day, so halve the measurements for each meal):
1 1/2 cups Innova Adult Reduced-Fat Dog Food (holistic, human grade dog food with no junk) *I don't recommend the reduced-fat version if your dog is at a healthy weight. Angus was on some different food blends that blew up him like a balloon over the past few months, due to his urate stone issues, so we are now trying to help him shed the excess weight he gained from the other foods. Ordinarily, I recommend Innova Adult dry dog food or Large Breed (for you big guys out there). There is a large bites and a small bites version of the regular Adult version, so be sure to pick the right size for your furball.
1 tsp. Solid Gold Seameal Supplement (Nupro was great before Angus was a stone former, but as it contains liver, Angus can't have it. Angus has to have foods that are lower in purines than red meat and organ meats.)
1 Tbsp. yogurt (see above)
1 Vitamin E capsule (see above)
Gordie can be particular about his food at times. He likes a little variety in his meals, which is both understandable, and quite frankly, recommended. Keeping their interest up is always a good thing. We like to add a spoonful of one of Merrick's canned foods. Merrick's has a lunch box multi-pack that is a family favorite. It comes with 7 different canned options, plus a mystery can. All the blends are healthy (though, I don't like to rely on canned food on a regular basis--too expensive for not enough nutritional value). Every few days, we open a new can and surprise Gordie with a new flavor. The only thing he won't eat are the peas in some of the blends. He licks them clean and leaves them in the bowl for us. As for Angus (and Gordie to a lesser extent), we add things like ripe bananas (peel it and mash it), shredded cheese, cottage cheese, or cooked apples (I just cook down some Macintosh with cinnamon, like my Aunt Eileen's Oktoberfest Applesauce recipe which I'll share someday).
Innova may not be the answer for your dog. I'm sorry, if it isn't, because it truly is my favorite of all the dog foods. Do keep in mind, when looking at dog food prices, Innova may cost $40-50 for a 30-33 pound bag, but you typically have it last twice as long as the same size bag of junkier food for $20-30, so you actually end up breaking even. You have to feed much much less Innova food to the amount of a junkier food to match the nutrients. It costs more up front, but you go to the store less, the vet bills are less, and your dog is immensely healthy. You can't beat that. Angus would be dead today if he had not been on Innova and Nupro before he has his bowel obstruction last summer. The surgeon told us so. And he's not the kind of dude who says things like that lightly. In the least. He's the most serious man I have ever met.
That being said, there are a few other human grade brands that I suggest for those who can't use Innova or are looking for a grainless option (Innova's EVO is a great option!), which include:
Wellness and Wellness CORE (though, I have found Wellness to produce a CRAPLOAD more poops, pun intended. Seriously, a lot more poop.)
Solid Gold Barking at the Moon
California Natural *
Orijen
EVO
Artemis Maximal Dog
Taste of the Wild
Horizon Legacy
Instinct
Go Natural
Blue Wilderness
Canidae
Fromm's
Merrick's
Life's Abundance
Timberwolf Organics
Acana
Watch with grain-free or low-grain dog foods like Orijen and EVO and some of the others on this list. They are higher in protein and grainless, and thus you feed quite a bit less and exercise more to compensate. Grain-free foods are also not recommended for puppies. Adult doggies only, please.
I rely on www.dogfoodanalysis.com to give me good reviews on foods. I am really only a fan of the 5 and 6 star kibbles on a whole, but there are some others that fit special cases like if you just add a little extra protein on the side (we give our dogs eggs, chicken, and other protein sources in their meals to balance things out, but also to keep their interest in food up.)
I do not suggest relying on exclusively canned food for a dog's diet. It can be added for fun and interest, but I find that dental problems tend to be the downside for canned foods as a sole diet source. I like dry kibbles that you can add things to, such as spoonfuls of yummy canned varieties.
I fully believe the Nupro supplement is an essential part of a dog's diet. It does a wondrous amount of things to keep the inside and outside of your baby nice and healthy. Lots of weirdos give their dogs avocado for skin and coat. Nupro does it better, cheaper, and without risk of avocado poisoning. Plus, dogs like the taste. We mix in about a 1/2 cup tap water into each meal, as Nupro doubles as a gravy! Yum!
Always be sure to provide lots of fresh, clean water.
Microchips are a Must
Microchips are an absolutely must-have item for any family dog. They are a simple, affordable way to give yourself some piece of mind that your baby will be taken care of if they should get separated from you, and be able to find their way home.
My favorite microchip company is Home Again. They are one of the pricier versions out there, but for $15 a year, they are worth it. Many microchip companies charge each time you need to update information (new address, new phone number (home or cell), new vet information, etc etc etc). Home Again has an easy to use website and you are free to update your information at any time as many times as you like.
Home Again also provides ID cards for free each year (one for your wallet and one for your keychain) that have your information on it, as well as vet info, and your dog's personal information along with a picture of your darling.
Home Again is the most widely used brand, and also the most publicized, which gives you the best chances of having your baby found should they meander away from home.
We've used Home Again for 2 1/2 years now and have had no issues. They even accepted our Saint Bernard's Avid brand chip, so even if your baby already has a chip from another brand, you can still register your chip with Home Again. Simply ask your vet to scan your dog's chip
Check out Home Again here.
My favorite microchip company is Home Again. They are one of the pricier versions out there, but for $15 a year, they are worth it. Many microchip companies charge each time you need to update information (new address, new phone number (home or cell), new vet information, etc etc etc). Home Again has an easy to use website and you are free to update your information at any time as many times as you like.
Home Again also provides ID cards for free each year (one for your wallet and one for your keychain) that have your information on it, as well as vet info, and your dog's personal information along with a picture of your darling.
Home Again is the most widely used brand, and also the most publicized, which gives you the best chances of having your baby found should they meander away from home.
We've used Home Again for 2 1/2 years now and have had no issues. They even accepted our Saint Bernard's Avid brand chip, so even if your baby already has a chip from another brand, you can still register your chip with Home Again. Simply ask your vet to scan your dog's chip
Check out Home Again here.
Questions to Ask Yourself Before Getting a Dog
1. Can I afford it?
Affording a dog has nothing to do with adoption fees. If you are griping or complaining or even just worried about a $250 or a $500 or even a $750 adoption fee, dog ownership is probably not for you if you want to do it right. Dogs are expensive, and special breeds (like, say, bulldogs) doubly so. Affording a dog means paying for food, medical treatment, vaccinations, health insurance, checkups, dental visits, mishap vet visits, trips to the ER vet because they ate a weird plant or a toy, toys themselves, supplies like bowls and ear cleaner and treats and stuff, something to contain them in your car with for safety (like a hammock, crate, or seat harness), training classes and possible behavioral consults, and let's not forget, leashes, collars, licenses, and name tags. Oh, and microchip services. And toothbrushes. And special shampoo. And whatever else they need. The list is truly endless.
2. Who will take care of my dog when I have to go out of town?
You really want to have three people lined up that could take your dog for you when you need to go out of town, and you also want to know of a good kennel, in case your people can't be there for you when you need them. Reputable kennels do NOT have indoor/outdoor facilities in each cage--do you want your dog peeing on your patio upon return home? Then go to a good kennel that keep your dogs indoors, until someone comes to them, leashes them, and walks them outside. In the DC area, we've only found two places we would trust with our boys, and both are a small fortune. The first is Olde Towne Pet Resort in Springfield, VA. The second is Blooms Crossing Animal Hospital/Yappie Cuttery in Manassas, VA. Though, we're *always* open to *good* suggestions. Bad suggestions can suck it.
I've stumbled upon a good website with lots of very good advice and decent reviews on boarding. It isn't perfect, and it can list some crummy places, so still do your research, but it might help to narrow some things down. Check it out here.
3. How will this dog impact daily life?
Are you home often, or will your dog be alone for most of the day? Dog bladders are really only designed to withstand an 8 hour block of time without potty on a regular basis. The occasional long 12 hour stint is not going to damage them instantly, but on a regular basis, this can do damage to their kidneys and urinary tracts. That can be expensive, and ultimately cause untimely death. If you can't be home often enough on a regular basis or can afford to have a dog walker, consider cats. Seriously, I don't mean thus as a rude suggestion. They are pretty good substitutes. They poop and pee all by themselves inside the home. They are furry, and they don't need walks. They snuggle, and although they don't bark and most don't drool, they make fairly good dog replacements if you can't be around for a dog.
4. Have I researched breeds completely?
Bulldogs have TONS of issues, but even though our Saint Bernard doesn't have nearly the specifics of the bully, he does have his own challenges and worries specific to his breed. Each breed, and doubly so for mixed breeds, has a special set of parameters you need to be aware of. Dalmations (as well as Eng. bulldogs, Yorkshire Terriers, and Schnauzers) are prone to urate stones. Saint Bernards and many other large breeds based off of the mastiff build are prone to bloat. Small breed dogs are prone to malnutrition. Labs are nuts as puppies. Pitbulls aren't all bad (but bad pitbull owners are). Scour the internets for info, and talk to all the other owners you can (I say a minimum of 5 other owners, but 8-10 is even better). Also, find a vet in your area that has experience with the breed you want, and pick their brain. Talk with vet techs about their experiences. Then put all the information together so you can find the truth in there for you.
5. Have I watched the Dog Whisperer or read Cesar Millan's books?
Ordinarily, I'm not really much of a bandwagon kind of girl. It happens, but it is fairly rare. However, Cesar Millan (and those behaviorists who follow his methods) is a god damn dog genius. If you don't think so, you are a useless turd. If you can't get onto Cesar's thinking, you'll never understand your dog completely, and ownership of a dog is not likely to be very rewarding or easy. What fun would that be? Also, if you don't understand Cesar, it's time for you to stop reading my blog, because I believe in his methods 100%, and probably won't be swaying from that very often.
Affording a dog has nothing to do with adoption fees. If you are griping or complaining or even just worried about a $250 or a $500 or even a $750 adoption fee, dog ownership is probably not for you if you want to do it right. Dogs are expensive, and special breeds (like, say, bulldogs) doubly so. Affording a dog means paying for food, medical treatment, vaccinations, health insurance, checkups, dental visits, mishap vet visits, trips to the ER vet because they ate a weird plant or a toy, toys themselves, supplies like bowls and ear cleaner and treats and stuff, something to contain them in your car with for safety (like a hammock, crate, or seat harness), training classes and possible behavioral consults, and let's not forget, leashes, collars, licenses, and name tags. Oh, and microchip services. And toothbrushes. And special shampoo. And whatever else they need. The list is truly endless.
2. Who will take care of my dog when I have to go out of town?
You really want to have three people lined up that could take your dog for you when you need to go out of town, and you also want to know of a good kennel, in case your people can't be there for you when you need them. Reputable kennels do NOT have indoor/outdoor facilities in each cage--do you want your dog peeing on your patio upon return home? Then go to a good kennel that keep your dogs indoors, until someone comes to them, leashes them, and walks them outside. In the DC area, we've only found two places we would trust with our boys, and both are a small fortune. The first is Olde Towne Pet Resort in Springfield, VA. The second is Blooms Crossing Animal Hospital/Yappie Cuttery in Manassas, VA. Though, we're *always* open to *good* suggestions. Bad suggestions can suck it.
I've stumbled upon a good website with lots of very good advice and decent reviews on boarding. It isn't perfect, and it can list some crummy places, so still do your research, but it might help to narrow some things down. Check it out here.
3. How will this dog impact daily life?
Are you home often, or will your dog be alone for most of the day? Dog bladders are really only designed to withstand an 8 hour block of time without potty on a regular basis. The occasional long 12 hour stint is not going to damage them instantly, but on a regular basis, this can do damage to their kidneys and urinary tracts. That can be expensive, and ultimately cause untimely death. If you can't be home often enough on a regular basis or can afford to have a dog walker, consider cats. Seriously, I don't mean thus as a rude suggestion. They are pretty good substitutes. They poop and pee all by themselves inside the home. They are furry, and they don't need walks. They snuggle, and although they don't bark and most don't drool, they make fairly good dog replacements if you can't be around for a dog.
4. Have I researched breeds completely?
Bulldogs have TONS of issues, but even though our Saint Bernard doesn't have nearly the specifics of the bully, he does have his own challenges and worries specific to his breed. Each breed, and doubly so for mixed breeds, has a special set of parameters you need to be aware of. Dalmations (as well as Eng. bulldogs, Yorkshire Terriers, and Schnauzers) are prone to urate stones. Saint Bernards and many other large breeds based off of the mastiff build are prone to bloat. Small breed dogs are prone to malnutrition. Labs are nuts as puppies. Pitbulls aren't all bad (but bad pitbull owners are). Scour the internets for info, and talk to all the other owners you can (I say a minimum of 5 other owners, but 8-10 is even better). Also, find a vet in your area that has experience with the breed you want, and pick their brain. Talk with vet techs about their experiences. Then put all the information together so you can find the truth in there for you.
5. Have I watched the Dog Whisperer or read Cesar Millan's books?
Ordinarily, I'm not really much of a bandwagon kind of girl. It happens, but it is fairly rare. However, Cesar Millan (and those behaviorists who follow his methods) is a god damn dog genius. If you don't think so, you are a useless turd. If you can't get onto Cesar's thinking, you'll never understand your dog completely, and ownership of a dog is not likely to be very rewarding or easy. What fun would that be? Also, if you don't understand Cesar, it's time for you to stop reading my blog, because I believe in his methods 100%, and probably won't be swaying from that very often.
Pet Insurance
We've found the best coverage for the best price through the AKC (American Kennel Club). We have the Wellness Plan (not plus, because both are neutered!), and it is awesome. It covers just about everything, and has saved us a butt-ton of money. After Angus' $3,000 surgery without pet insurance, we researched our badoodies off to find the best stuff. There's lots of cheapie programs out there that are basically like a coupon discount book. Avoid these--they suck pickles. Get the AKC insurance, thank yourself later.
Click here to visit the AKC insurance website.
Click here to visit the AKC insurance website.
Nutrition: Things Your Baby SHOULD NOT Eat
As important as it is to feed your dog the right food, it is almost more important to make sure you don't feed your dog the wrong food. This is a list of things you SHOULD NOT feed your dog, if you love them or have any regard for their health.
The "Bad for Dogs" List:
Wheat (known allergen for most dogs, and even for dogs who can tolerate wheat, it is a useless filler that clogs the system)
Soy (same deal as wheat)
Corn (see wheat)
Chocolate and anything caffeinated (ever given a 5 year old one of those huge pixie sticks? yeah, imagine that happening in your dog's gut. bad news. it attacks the heart and nervous systems and can cause failures)
Artificial Preservatives (uh, duh, it's just bad for them. look for natural preservatives like rosemary extract)
Cat Food (it is formulated for cats, who require a much higher protein and fat content than dogs, and this can make your pooch sick as a ... well, dog.)
Fillers (excessive junky starches and grains are useless, pack on the pounds, and get in the way of the good nutrients from healthy foods)
Beet Pulp (a common filler in many foods such as Nutro. can cause renal failure and kidney and liver issues.)
By-Products (like Brewer's Yeast and Brewer's Rice. These are by-products of the beer brewing system. It's just the trash left over after making Budweiser. Would you eat that? ...exactly)
Buttloads of Liver (this can cause a toxicity from Vitamin A, which attacks the muscles and bones)
Macadamia Nuts (attacks the nervous and digestive systems. It is a good idea to stay away from all nuts, except peanuts. Peanuts and peanut butter are fine in moderation, just watch because it is fatty, and if it isn't the natural kind, it can be very salty)
Citrus Oil (can cause major puking)
Lactose (this is a mild one--some dogs are prone to lactose intolerance, others aren't at all. gently introduce it into your dog's diet to determine how well your dog tolerates it. each case is different, so test our how your dog does gently and slowly )
Sugar (natural sugars like in molasses or honey are okay, but regular refined sugars do nothing good and do plenty bad--avoid them because they are worthless and evil. it can cause diabetes, dental issues, and obesity. huh, just like people!)
Cooked Bones (they splinter and can gouge intestines or esophagusessesses and the like or can become blockages and THAT will be expensive to fix, as we know from experience--it can become life threatening. much more expensive than just not giving them to your dog, which is free.)
Mushrooms (attacks a number of systems, but typically results in shock, and it can also kill a dog)
Apple Seeds and most fruit seeds (some contain stuff that makes them sick, some can get stuck in the way in the case of a blockage. take out the seeds before sharing)
Green Potatoes (I can't remember why, but it makes them sick)
Nutmeg (can't remember why, but don't use it. cinnamon is cool though)
Too Much Salt (can create an electrolyte imbalance. don't add it to their food and don't use foods for them that contain a lot, and you should be okay)
Alcohol (would you give it to a baby? no! because their systems can't metabolize it. they can become intoxicated and slip into a coma, or worse, die. don't let your dog drink a little beer because you think it is funny. i think plenty of stupid shit is funny, but this is not. it is cruel and disgusting and anyone who does it is a complete ass.)
Avocados (attacks the nervous system. it is actually the skin, seed, and bark that contains the bad stuff, but why bother? avocados are NOT essential to a dogs diet. many people claim it gives a healthy coat, but this can be achieved in a number of other, safer, easier ways, so why bother. i'll post more on good nutrition later and will address coats then)
Onions and Garlic (though there is controversy over whether they are okay to give raw, i tend to just avoid them. i'm less anal about garlic than onions, but it just depends on the product)
Baby Food (much of it contains onion powder, see above)
Grapes and Raisins (damages kidneys)
Their own poop or the poop of any other creature (some dogs do this as a behavior response, others do it because they are missing a vital nutrient in their diet. go to your vet, figure out the cause (nutrient or behavioral) and then address the problem.)
Grass, flowers, trees, windmills, infants, gum, etc (these are just DUH items. if they aren't food, your dog should not eat it.)
There are probably some things I have forgotten to add, so please feel free to post anything additional I've missed.
If your dog ever ingests something questionable or poisonous, call the Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435. They usually charge about $60 bucks, but you can pay with credit card. You should keep their number in your cell phone.
Also, it is very important to locate your nearest emergency veterinary clinic in the case of after hours emergencies. Keep your regular veterinarian's phone number AND your emergency veterinarian's number in your cell phone. If you ever have a life threatening problem, you'll want to transport your dog their quickly and safely, but also call ahead to give them a heads up. They can be ready for your emergency when you get there, rather than having you burst through the door with a sick animal that they are not prepared for.
The "Bad for Dogs" List:
Wheat (known allergen for most dogs, and even for dogs who can tolerate wheat, it is a useless filler that clogs the system)
Soy (same deal as wheat)
Corn (see wheat)
Chocolate and anything caffeinated (ever given a 5 year old one of those huge pixie sticks? yeah, imagine that happening in your dog's gut. bad news. it attacks the heart and nervous systems and can cause failures)
Artificial Preservatives (uh, duh, it's just bad for them. look for natural preservatives like rosemary extract)
Cat Food (it is formulated for cats, who require a much higher protein and fat content than dogs, and this can make your pooch sick as a ... well, dog.)
Fillers (excessive junky starches and grains are useless, pack on the pounds, and get in the way of the good nutrients from healthy foods)
Beet Pulp (a common filler in many foods such as Nutro. can cause renal failure and kidney and liver issues.)
By-Products (like Brewer's Yeast and Brewer's Rice. These are by-products of the beer brewing system. It's just the trash left over after making Budweiser. Would you eat that? ...exactly)
Buttloads of Liver (this can cause a toxicity from Vitamin A, which attacks the muscles and bones)
Macadamia Nuts (attacks the nervous and digestive systems. It is a good idea to stay away from all nuts, except peanuts. Peanuts and peanut butter are fine in moderation, just watch because it is fatty, and if it isn't the natural kind, it can be very salty)
Citrus Oil (can cause major puking)
Lactose (this is a mild one--some dogs are prone to lactose intolerance, others aren't at all. gently introduce it into your dog's diet to determine how well your dog tolerates it. each case is different, so test our how your dog does gently and slowly )
Sugar (natural sugars like in molasses or honey are okay, but regular refined sugars do nothing good and do plenty bad--avoid them because they are worthless and evil. it can cause diabetes, dental issues, and obesity. huh, just like people!)
Cooked Bones (they splinter and can gouge intestines or esophagusessesses and the like or can become blockages and THAT will be expensive to fix, as we know from experience--it can become life threatening. much more expensive than just not giving them to your dog, which is free.)
Mushrooms (attacks a number of systems, but typically results in shock, and it can also kill a dog)
Apple Seeds and most fruit seeds (some contain stuff that makes them sick, some can get stuck in the way in the case of a blockage. take out the seeds before sharing)
Green Potatoes (I can't remember why, but it makes them sick)
Nutmeg (can't remember why, but don't use it. cinnamon is cool though)
Too Much Salt (can create an electrolyte imbalance. don't add it to their food and don't use foods for them that contain a lot, and you should be okay)
Alcohol (would you give it to a baby? no! because their systems can't metabolize it. they can become intoxicated and slip into a coma, or worse, die. don't let your dog drink a little beer because you think it is funny. i think plenty of stupid shit is funny, but this is not. it is cruel and disgusting and anyone who does it is a complete ass.)
Avocados (attacks the nervous system. it is actually the skin, seed, and bark that contains the bad stuff, but why bother? avocados are NOT essential to a dogs diet. many people claim it gives a healthy coat, but this can be achieved in a number of other, safer, easier ways, so why bother. i'll post more on good nutrition later and will address coats then)
Onions and Garlic (though there is controversy over whether they are okay to give raw, i tend to just avoid them. i'm less anal about garlic than onions, but it just depends on the product)
Baby Food (much of it contains onion powder, see above)
Grapes and Raisins (damages kidneys)
Their own poop or the poop of any other creature (some dogs do this as a behavior response, others do it because they are missing a vital nutrient in their diet. go to your vet, figure out the cause (nutrient or behavioral) and then address the problem.)
Grass, flowers, trees, windmills, infants, gum, etc (these are just DUH items. if they aren't food, your dog should not eat it.)
There are probably some things I have forgotten to add, so please feel free to post anything additional I've missed.
If your dog ever ingests something questionable or poisonous, call the Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435. They usually charge about $60 bucks, but you can pay with credit card. You should keep their number in your cell phone.
Also, it is very important to locate your nearest emergency veterinary clinic in the case of after hours emergencies. Keep your regular veterinarian's phone number AND your emergency veterinarian's number in your cell phone. If you ever have a life threatening problem, you'll want to transport your dog their quickly and safely, but also call ahead to give them a heads up. They can be ready for your emergency when you get there, rather than having you burst through the door with a sick animal that they are not prepared for.
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